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Climbs 20
Rocktype Trachyte

Faces E

Crag features

Small east facing crag about 20m high, in woods next to river Allier. Quite shady despite the clearing of shrubs around the cliff. Possibly a former quarry for local stone. Grades 4a-7b. Most of the lines follow cracks up the crag, which starts steep and eases off towards top. Beware of ticks. Chain belays generally below top of crag, although some routes do top out. Descent from top round side of crag. The area attracts quite a lot of walkers as it is situated on a path beside the river.

Approach notes

Recommended parking is at the Chateau de Chadieu, however vehicles have been seen parked at foot of the crag on the track. It is uncertain whether this is just people too lazy to park at the recommended site, or whether parking is actually allowed - access via the farm track is not guaranteed as blocks of rock have been laid across the track in several places.

From the north or south, leave the A75 motorway at junction 6. When exiting from the north, at junction cross straight over on to the D797 heading towards Coudes, then approximately 1.5 km on, turn left onto the D630 in the direction of Longues/Vic-le-Comte, crossing back over the motorway. After about 4km, take a sharp turn right, down a narrower country lane which should have a signpost indicating Chateau de Chadieu. Follow the lane all the way to the chateau and park at the front (designated parking area).

Walk east from the car park around the outside wall of the chateau, following a farm track which generally follows the river Allier upstream, passing first through a meadow, and then into woods. Follow this farm track for about 2km until you reach the crag set back a little to the right of the track.

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