Climbs 57
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces all
Fiend enjoying Owen's Arete © Fiend Collection
Crag features
This beautiful coastal area is famed for its golf course and of course, the Ty Coch inn on the beach. Once voted in the top ten of the world’s best beach side pubs and bars. With views over towards Yr Eifl and Holyhead Mountain it is a stunning part of the world and just a giant’s stride from the Ty Coch lies a well-known fishing spot and now a bouldering destination.It is likely that some of these problems have been climbed before such is the obviousness of their positioning. However thanks to various visits over the last 10 years by Messrs Huthwaite and McShane and a visit with pads involving Sam Thompson in July 2016 there is now a worthwhile circuit of generally lower grade problems in a fantastic setting. Now I wouldn’t travel that far for these problems but if you are holidaying in the region (and why wouldn’t you?) then these problems are easily accessible and worth popping in for an hour or two.
David Fidler has added a whole host of new problems which I have included on this page but about which I have no other information. I am assuming this will all become clear when Si's Coastal Crags guide comes out. Good work Mr Fidler!!
Approach notes
The problems on the wave cut platform are non tidal but the middle and lower blocks will need a low tide. The rock on the platform blocks is sharp but solid, there was some debate about the quality of rock on the middle block but the lower block is very interesting indeed and has some unusual holds consisting of thin flakes and the odd weird pocket.Parking is available either at the National Trust parking spot above Morfa Nefyn beach (pay and display) or at the Golf course £4 per car. Either approach is flat and pleasant although the approach from Morfa Nefyn avoids the risk of flying golf balls for the most part!
A topo is available by request from simon.huthwaite@gmail.com or online at http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Porth%20Dinllaen%20BoulderingV2.pdf
Access Advice
The upper blocks on the ledge are accessible 90% of the time but high seas and winds would soak the boulders in spray. Hoobie’s High Heels block is broadly non tidal but the lower block definitely needs a low tide.As ever with coastal venues, some of the rock is a bit suspect and we advise use of caution. Having said that, the upper boulders are generally very compact, with little loose rock. It is worth noting that the platform the upper boulders sit on can get swamped by big waves and as such, caution is urged at high tide.
| There is a nice bloc just behind the RNLI with at least 3 problems on it. It doesn’t seem to be in the topo but I am sure it must have been climbed before.
The arête is easy but a little exposed, f3-
Traverse along the crack from the arête and then top out would go. I did just the top out portion from a standing start, which was about f4, but would be much better and a fair bit harder including the traverse.
Further to the right there is another wall with some nice flakes on it, about f5 from sit start.
(52.9471557, -4.5643007) chigozie - 03/Dec/19 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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