UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 87m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Wick Quarry Bouldering Routes prt01 © ChrisCarnage

Crag features

Two good size boulders with top outs on both. The tallest one is slabby with solid crimpy holds and a few juggs. At around 15ft / 4.5m the height makes for a hair raising top out for all the routes, even the easiest. 

The lower but overhung 'trolltooth' crag provides a solid overhung flake with one main top out route that has potential for harder variations near the top. Big pumping moves with some nice crimps and heel hooks on the arete. Much more fun as the percentage for broken ankles down considerably.  

Approach notes

Park on Rock Road just north west of the quarry and walk through the national trust pathway, take the left slightly hidden pathway left of the tree and just follow the path.

Restricted Access

From January to March the buttress is currently closed off for goat conservation and wildflower protection.The quarry edge boulder is not.

Climbed most routes this afternoon - the main face with 5 routes significantly easier than grades suggest - all quite slabby with good landings
alexdwaldron - 05/Mar/21
Did all the problems on the small face (it was covered in ivy) about a year or so ago. Will be in a new guide. Actually called Wick Rocks and not Wick Quarry. I did have a look in the quarry but got asked to leave by security men.
Long Pinky - 02/Sep/16
Is it at all possible to climb within the actual old quarry or is it all loose rock? Does anyone know what is happening about it becoming a nature-reserve??
That Dude With The Beanie - 20/Aug/16
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