Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 950m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag features
This is the "spot a la mode" in the Gorges du Verdon. The climbing is powerful and mostly on steep tufas, often with poor footholds, though there are some easier routes that are more fingery and less steep. The pitches are long, sometimes up to 50m and there are about 10 multi-pitch routes. Grades are tough here.
It can be difficult to get the right conditions, best is when the Mistral is blowing from the north. The rock is really sharp and can shred the skin very quickly.
There is a topo available on Antonin Rhodes and Carole Palmier's site called Greenspits. Please join and contribute towards the equipping here.
Approach notes
This is a very serious place to climb. Be aware of the weather forecast before you visit because you could be trapped there if you're not careful. The approach is long and complicated and you need to wear a harness and helmet. You will need a descendeur and via ferratta type slings or quick draws (a jumar can be useful for the return).
Park at one of the parking spots at the Tunnel du Fayet on the D71 on the left side ("rive gauche") of the canyon. The descent starts down an obvious gully between the tunnels. Follow the hand lines, abseil ropes and via cordata down the gully. From the end of the fixed rope follow the path downhill for about 10 minutes to arrive at a short rope that leads upwards. From there follow the path rightwards to arrive at the lefthand end of the crag after a total of about 25 minutes. The return takes about 30 minutes.
There is a new and easier access as of 2021: Park in a large grassy area on the right before the last bend when approaching the Tunnel du Fayet from Comps, heading west (in other words towards Aiguines). Follow the wide track gently downhill for a couple of minutes to a cairn on the left, follow the smaller track uphill for a couple of minutes to a large rocky outcrop on the left. From here, follow the track downhill and then uphill, passing a section with a handline, to arrive at a tricky/exposed section with another handline (best to clip in here) which leads to the older access just below the via cordata section. 15 to 20 minutes.
Please be discreet and tidy. Don't leave any litter or finger tape and make sure that you go to the toilet before you arrive. Antonin Rhodes is the principle equipeur and he is really keen that the place is kept clean.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Mike Owen