UKC

Climbs 10
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 192m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Mojo Boulder © MathewWright1998

Crag features

A small line of broken natural outcrops on the hill side above of West End, Abercarn gives way to quite an impressive but strangely formed section in particular. The outcrop on its front view has a 35 degree slab whilst on the rear side a 35 degree overhang is present; overall, looking like a large angular coin or disk. All problems on this boulder are either fairly easy in difficulty or eliminates which can be made very interesting. I have not spent much time on the slab but many well spent hours have been endured on the overhanging side of the outcrop.

Climbers in the of 6a to 7a range may enjoy spending an winters evening here as it is almost permanetly dry, even if it has been raining all day, the crag dries off after only a few hours of dry weather due to it almost being free standing and 2ft thick.

 

Approach notes

 

 

Difficult to find if you do not know the area (good luck to anybody who's adventurous) also it's very hard to describe the location besides it's in an arranged plantation of pine trees overlooking West End, Abercarn.

Once into west end, make your way half way up of the hill, above a large chappel on Cae Gorlan Street. Continue up to join Pant-Y-Resk road find somewhere to park and walk towards a line of garages on the hand right side if walking up hill. Follow a lane around the right side of the garages. As the lane bends left a private car park should be visible 20 metres in front. About 10 metres before this car park, take a left onto a muddy footpath through the woodland. Take this until it an arranged pine woodland is present on your left. Find your way through by a faint trail. Once in the woodland, walk uphill for 5-10 minutes (parallel to the previous footpath) the boulder will soon be viable. It may take a while to find but once it's been found, it's easy to return.

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Climbs at this crag

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