UKC

Climbs 115
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 467m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Mollans © Rockfax

Crag features

The series of very steep crags on the left above the road as you drive from Mollans towards Buis, mostly equipped by Antonin Rhodes, Seb Bouin and friends. There are lots of really hard routes here for 9a climbers. A comprehensive Topo can be found on the greenspits website please feel free to make a donation to the local climbers via the website.

The rock is a very rough molasse limestone and some of the routes are a bit gritty on some sectors. More compact limestone on the harder routes.

Be careful: the FFME haven't authorised the climbing here because they say the bolts should be glue ins and they suggest that the 12 mm bolts aren't safe enough for this type of rock.

Approach notes

There is a tourist path going up the hillside underneath the crags (follow yellow and red markers). You are advised to park in the village, though it is possible to park in a fairly large lay by on the main road (D5).

Access Advice

The local climbers are very clear: information is very scarce and any topos are not to be circulated. They are very much anti Rockfax in this part of France. So be very friendly and courteous.

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Climbs at this crag

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