Climbs 140
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 157m a.s.l
Faces all
Granite bouldering in Kasama woods, Ibaraki prefecture. Kasama is famous amongst Japanese for it's pottery but in climbing circles, for Kasama boulder. Shaded wooded area of scattered boulders on the side of a hill with a small shrine and nice view from the top. Best visited in winter when it's crisp and dry. As it is shaded it takes half a day to a day to dry after heavy rain (don't bother out of winter as it's too humid and bitey!). Apparently the woods were the stage for a big Samurai battle and thus home to lots of ghosts. Many routes are named accordingly.
Climbing: get practising those slopers! You will soon realise that Japanese climbers can defy physics when it comes to a sloper. Lots of slabby routes, open hands and non-existent feet. Although there are a few cracks, I've not seen many locals jamming. The rock is great, not as sharp as UK granite, more like super grippy gritstone and whilst on the subject, if you thought Yorkshire grit was graded low then prepare for a shock! Where? That? How? is a common reaction to route finding. Japanese grading system roughly translated here.
Make the most of your time and try to climb everything because next time you go the route may not be there! Seriously, the boulders move around in big earthquakes.
Drive to Kasama prefectural national park where there is a free car park. You will know you are in the right place when you drive past the 1st boulder "Samurai Rock" in the middle of the road! The rest of the boulders are a short walk from the carpark. Best to head up the hill toward the shrine and look down and you will see some boulders at the top, these continue down the hill.
No access issues but is customary to bring a large brush and brush away excess chalk after climbing. Maybe this is for aesthetics or just to preserve the challenge for the next guy of finding the holds!
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