Climbs 15
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces E
West End Buttress, 35 degree at it's finest © MathewWright1998
Crag features
A fantastic training venue for locals and fits in well with a trip to the sport crag Tyle y Coch only 150m away.
A medium sized roadside sandstone quarry, The only logged wall so far is the 35 Degree Overhanging Wall that offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean face is around three meters high, with a very good, flat landing.
All the lines on the 35 Degree Wall are eliminates, a photo has been provided to help find your way on the problems. Use only the holds numbered in the route discription for both hand holds and foot placements. If there is any confusion, feel free to get in contact with the crag moderator.
The rest of the crag is pretty dirty and overgrown on the faces but with time and patience may come more good quality lines.
Approach notes
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent.
Heading north towards Newbridge is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park.
Walk in a Southerly direction along the road, with the Rail Line on your left and the uphill side on your right towards Abercarn West end for approx three hundred meters to reach the crag on your right.
To reach the 35 Degree Wall, on the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy ramp with two steps at just over a foot high. A large stick is left at the base of the ramp to assist, please return it for other climbers use. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach the 35 degree wall stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy!
No Access Issues
Typically avoid during the wet season (November - March), unfortunatily it seeps simular to other local crags.
| Broke hold 19
Significantly worse now unfortunately! huwbrace - 23/Aug/23 |
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| My training ground for two years. Taken me from 7a to 8a with a lot of sessions MathewWright1998 - 22/Jan/19 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.