Climbs 3
Rocktype Serpentine
Crag features
The cove is the only steep bouldering venue I've found so far on the east Lizard. Unless you're local with limited transport it is probably(/definitely) not worth a dedicated trip, although the beach itself might be!
The climbing is typically juggy, thuggy and sharp with suprising holds both good and bad. Several harder lines yet to be climbed, especially in the cave.
Smooth level sand to fall onto (on taller problems I've dug over wet sand to soften the landing further). The rock isn't completely trustworthy, particularly once beyond the reach of the waves, but there isn't enough adventure in most bouldering!
Approach notes
Turn right at Ponsongath chapel, continue up the lane to parking for 2/3 cars by a pond and old wind powered pump. From here walk down to the coast path through a metal gate, and follow the coast path east, with the cove visible below. After ~150 yards a small path leads left down to the cliff. This zigzags down to a variety of fixed hand lines on the last rocky descent.
Problems are scattered around; to get to the cave area walk across the beach toward Carrick Luz, past several isolated rocks and around the corner. (There is also another cave to the east of the main beach but this has less obvious potential and much more seepage!)
Access Advice
Tidal- problems are only accessible below half tide (haven't actually checked yet). Watch out for getting cut off in the cave area.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
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