Climbs 18
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 128m a.s.l
Faces S
Crag features
A sedate little limestone crag, split into two main boulders. The left boulder contains the bulk of routes ranging from delicate slabs, to short but thuggy overhangs. The right boulder features a small overhang and an incredible left hand wall, as in "holdless apart from a top out jug". There are some amazing features that are incorporated into the problems - check out the quartzy buffalo head.
Landings are excellent. The crag dries very quickly and suffers no serious seepage problems. It is south-facing and has shade from nearby trees in summer. Set into the castles rear walls, the castle boulders are unique and situated in a very secluded spot.
Be careful getting down as the flattish top can become very vegetated in the summer months, so take care. The LH butress can be descended carefully at either end; the RH descended by reversing down the corner to the right of the overhang.
Approach notes
Park by the main castle entrance or on Castle Lane which runs down the right hand side of the castle. Follow Castle Lane to its Junction with Love Lane, turn left. The crag can be accessed by the track on the left after the junction. As the road drops down, take the first left onto the gravel double track, take the left hand fork after 50m. Continue until you see a winding path (approximately 100 m) on your left - follow this up toward the castle wall, follow this leftwards and the crag will be seen in a pleasant minature vale.
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Climbs at this crag
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