UKC

Climbs 250
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces W

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dreaded overhangs! © quickthinkingtom

Crag features

Paynes Ford is one of the climbing Mecca's of New Zealand with something to satisfy most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access; there are a variety of grades and types of climbing. The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - it's even good in mid-winter (when the friction is better).

The excellent 'Hangdog Camp' lies within minute's walk from the crag and a great swimming hole can be found just across the road. You can buy the local guide booklet from Hangdog (camp) which includes most of the climbs in the Golden Bay region.

Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.

Good topo here.

Approach notes

Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The Paynes Ford cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the carpark.

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Climbs at this crag

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