UKC

Climbs 20
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 221m a.s.l
Faces SW

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The Middle Finger, Yangshuo © Emilio Bachini

Crag features

A obvious, proud and tall tower of solid grey and orange rock that features many high quality multi pitch routes. Typically dead vertical or slightly overhanging with few places where things get steeper, though they do exist.

Some routes may have to be accessed via other routes although this a worthwhile exercise. The main face can catch rays before midday and can also get very hot if the sun is relentless, as there is little shade to be found once committed a few pitches up.

Other routes are reported to exist, mainly on the North face though current information is limited.

Approach notes

Despite it's obvious position, The Middle Finger has been know to be difficult to approach.

On the X827 from Yangshuo, pass the Butterfly Spring and around the corner just as The Thumb Peak should appear on your right. The obvious tower on the opposite side of the road is The Middle Finger. Take the left turning about 50 meters after The Thumb Peak that is slightly uphill.

The road splits a little further on, take the left road following it straight for a couple hundred meter until directly in front of the crag. Various obstructions still remain including ponds, horses and gardens, how ever you choose to approach the crag from the small village road, please park responsibly and give the utmost respect to the land and owners.

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