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Climbs 100
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Beautiful pink granite boulders spread along a picturesque section of coastline. Quite a lot of it is tidal although there is plenty above high tide as well. Lots to explore and little documentation available. There is plenty of hard (and highball) bouldering available, but also many easier friction slabs and problems up scoops and wide off widths. Gets a mention on the Beastmaker blog - http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/kerlouan.html
Really worth while visiting if you are in the area although it can get busy with tourists at popular times and you do become a bit of an 'attraction'.
It seems to be too good an area not to have featured more prominently in the climbing media before hence there may be access problems although an extensive search hasn't revealed any yet. There are attempts to try and work on the erosion by keeping people on the paths, and you have to go off the paths to get to the boulders. There can't be any problems with the amazing rock structures being eroded by climbers since most are tidal or wave-washed in high seas.

There is also a small bolted crag next to the coast path 1km to the SE.

Approach notes

Park in the won of Saint-Guirec (also signed to as Ploumanac'h) and follow the wide path towards the lighthouse (or 'phare'). There are boulders below the lighthouse, on short promontory just before the lighthouse and further southwest towards the bay. Also some problems above and left (looking out) of the main beach which are worth a look. There is certainly more to be found as well on the tidal isles to the north west and further east along the coast.

Spent a few short sessions here on a family holiday and was quite impressed. There is climbing along a kilometer of coast at least. Lots of the boulders are quite scrattly but those nearer the sea much less so. Some are quite featureless but given the amount of rock there's loads to do and some stunning lines. The height of the boulders and the landings meant that we chose to top rope quite a bit. If i was going back i'd take a rack (which we didnt have), with big friends (5&6) and lots of pads! The guy i was climbing with is french and he reckons theres been a conscious decision not to document the boulders to allow people to explire themselves. We probably climbed about 30 problems/short routes, the best of which was probably a fist to offwidth roof crack that i reckon is about e2 5c but i should probably give hvs 5b for forms sake... it is about 200m south of the lighthouse and faces out to sea.
Bristoldave - 26/Aug/18
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