Climbs 50
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 198m a.s.l
Crag features
The crag was originally developed with about 50 bolted routes, but the quality of the equipment has deteriorated over the years and many of the routes are now not safe to climb.
10 routes have been re-equipped with high standard stainless steel glue in bolts and good lower offs and these are the ones numbered in the route listings and marked in the crag photographs. I have climbed and seen chalk on some of the ‘old routes’. I have mentioned this in the descriptions and others may be climbable, but be very cautious and use your own judgement.
The crag forms the left rim (going up) of the dry river valley that descends from the wind-farm down towards the town of Guatiza. The lava has cooled into column structures with the routes taking grooves and using cracks. The better bits of climbing use pockets on the faces. The rock has quite low friction and the climbing is nothing special, but there are a few factors that make it worth a visit:
The ten re-equipped routes are all worth doing if you climb at that grade. The photos make the routes look short. They have good length, around 20m. The crag faces NE so gets afternoon shade. It’s a beautiful peaceful spot with great views. The walk in is relatively easy.
I revisited the crag in Dec 2021. There has been no more rebolting, but the existing routes are chalked and are being used. I discovered that in the ravine to the far right of the crag some of the hard steep routes had also been rebolted several years ago. There was minimal chalk on them and if you wanted routes at this grade the lava tubes or sea cliffs would be a better option
Approach notes
If coming from Teguise in the centre of the island, fork right on the LZ-404 to Teseguite and just after the village take a left to El Mojon on the LZ-405. Fork right towards Guatiza just after the village. Follow the small road steeply down hill with poor tarmac surface in places to park on a sharp right hairpin bend, 2.7km from the fork at El Mojon. If coming from the S on the east coast main road LZ-1 you need to get off the fast road just before the town of Guatiza (where there is a petrol station by the slip-road roundabout). Head towards Guatiza and take the first left after 0.75km. Follow this road forking right to reach the parking on the hairpin, 1.75km from the left turn.
To get to the crag follow a vague track downhill slightly past 2 ‘fields’ covered with black lava 'sand'. Turn L and walk gently uphill on an old track between walls. When you arrive at the edge of the valley where the rocks start, go over the ridge and zigzag down a little to reach a path which leads along the bottom of the crag. There are a few small cairns to follow and the first route is just round the corner that is visible ahead. (See crag approach photos). Approximately 20 mins from the parking.
Restricted Access
There are three restriction. First there is a climbing ban from 01.02 to 30.06 each year. Second there is a maximum number of 20 climbers at the same time. And third for the sector 34 you have to ask the administration befor climbing. The regulation is BOC Nr. 061, 13.05.2002.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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