UKC

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Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 628m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

A spectacular deep and narrow gorge with bolted routes on both sides. Some excellent quality climbing, and home to the first 8a in Piemonte.

Approach notes

From the village of Chianocco, follow a good path (complete with public toilet at start) on the left side of the river as you face upstream. The path doubles back and enters a short cave to mount the first waterfall you come to; the gorge is obvious when you arrive at the next highest waterfalls, with routes more and less convenient to reach depending on how far up the gorge you want to climb. Approach time from Chianocco is 5-10 mins.

Climbing is permitted but newly placed bolts get cut. There is an ongoing controversy over new routing here, and local climbers resent the appearance of a shiny new via ferrata which traverses the starts of some classic routes. Don't leave climbing gear in place on bolts which are accessible from the ground, as it will likely be removed. (Presumably for the safety of via ferrata users).

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Climbs at this crag

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