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Climbs 65
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1226m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

Wilgepoort has been a firm favourite with a small but enthusiastic number of adventure climbers from the Pretoria/Johannesburg area since its discovery in 1966. It has been described as the best winter single day, adventure crag in the Pretoria/Johannesburg area. The crag is located north-east of Bronkhorstspruit in Mpumalanga, situated in the Gouwsberg valley on the banks of the Wilge river, in a unique, subtropical middleveldt setting. The crag is approximately 110 metres high at its highest. Please first contact the MCSA for the latest access, it is 'delicate'. The crags are located in an area of wild, African scenic beauty. It is not uncommon to see a pair of Black Eagles, the resident gymnogene, giant kingfishers and otters fishing in the Big Pool, nor to hear the bark of baboons. When the leaves on the trees and bushes are turning colour, especially those located at water level, the place is a sight to behold.

The crags are located in an area of wild, African scenic beauty. It is not uncommon to see a pair of Black Eagles, the resident gymnogene, giant kingfishers and otters fishing in the Big Pool, nor to hear the bark of baboons. When the leaves on the trees and bushes are turning colour, especially those located at water level, the place is a sight to behold.

The rock comprises weathered Waterberg sedimentary rocks of excellent quality, and vertical cracks predominate on the Main crag. There is some loose rock at the top of some routes, so you are advised to wear a helmet. Most routes follow cracks, open books, grooves and chimneys. A standard trad rack, supplemented by additional camming devices usually suffices. The size and duplicates of camming devices to be carried can usually be determined in advance, once the width of the crack to be climbed is observed. (If ever in doubt, take MORE).

Good topo here.

Approach notes

The roads are passable with normal cars. Contact MCSA for latest access details, they change fairly often! See our MCSA Access page. The MCSA has been working hard over the years to keep the access to this area open. Please be quiet, dont litter or do anything else that would upset the owners of the property and possibly close access in the future, always please first contact the MCSA.

Camping was traditionally done on the western shore of the large pool, and this venue remains popular due to its proximity to the Main crag. However, another campsite closer to the parking area has become popular in recent times; it is located on a beach immediately upstream of the rocky ridge which one scrambles over after 100m from the cars. There is space for approximately five tents.

From the parking area walk upstream for 800m on the true right bank of the river. At times of low water it will be possible to cross over the river to the old campsite and then back over the river below the Main crag. At times of high water it is necessary to keep on the true right bank; to get to the Main crag then involves scrambling over the low crags which overlook the huge pool. Traverse higher up on the grass slopes of the true right bank to the crag (see the Special notice, below):

Special notice regarding access route to the climbs

Walk upstream from the carpark, over the ridge, continue horizontally at first and then diagonally down to the water's edge, following a vague path. When the way ahead is seemingly blocked by a ridge running down into the river make a tricky move up on to the ridge and down it on to the rocks in the river bed. If the river is low enough one can now cross it to the old camp-site and continue along the previous access (this is the fastest approach to the cliffs).

Otherwise continue along the rocks (still on the true right-hand side of the river) and then up a bushy grass ramp leading up from the bottom edge of the large pool. Follow the vague path, scramble 3m down a short corner (there is a stamvrug tree to hang on while descending) and then continue traversing horizontally along a grassy, exposed ledge (you are about 25m above the large pool at this stage) until you reach The Broad gully with the prickly cactuses and tree thorns, from where the going is easier (if pricklier). These can be avoided by taking a slightly higher line when you gain The Broad gully. Follow the gully down to the river and continue further to the climbing area.

Other Important Information

Please keep all gates closed. Camping and parking at present are allowed and are free of charge. Water must be sterilised (but see below, ' The Drip'). Fire hazard is high: take all precautions. All rubbish shall be removed, not burned or buried. Climbing is not allowed on the separate Western crag (also popularly known as The Pillar of Eros and situated 800m upstream of the Main crag) during the Black Eagle Nesting season (April to mid-November).

The Drip: Immediately right of the start of Some Like It Hot is a water drip. This drip is perennial (even in drought conditions), and is a source of safe drinking water.

No Access Issues

The property is now owned by MCSA being purchased in 2013. For bookings, permits and the access gate lock combination, contact the MCSA Magalisberg Section, Tel: 083 845 1573 (8am-10am weekdays), Email: admin@(add:mag.mcsa.org.za)

 

Permits cost R40 per weekend (as of 2013), to be paid to the MCSA Magalisberg Administrator. The access gate has a combination gate lock, the number being given at time of booking. Once a booking has been made, it is advisable to phone Andre, the tenant farmer at Cell: 082 388 3087.

Camping was traditionally done on the western shore of the large pool, and this venue remains popular due to its proximity to the Main crag. However, another campsite closer to the parking area has become popular in recent times; it is located on a beach immediately upstream of the rocky ridge which one scrambles over after 100 metres from the cars. There is space for approximately five tents.

From the parking area walk upstream for 800m on the true right bank of the river. At times of low water it will be possible to cross over the river to the old campsite and then back over the river below the Main crag. At times of high water it is necessary to keep on the true right bank; to get to the Main crag then involves scrambling over the low crags which overlook the huge pool. Traverse higher up on the grass slopes of the true right bank to the crag (see the Special notice, below):

Special notice regarding access route to the climbs
Walk upstream from the car-park, over the ridge, continue horizontally at first and then diagonally down to the water's edge, following a vague path. When the way ahead is seemingly blocked by a ridge running down into the river make a tricky move up on to the ridge and down it on to the rocks in the river bed. If the river is low enough one can now cross it to the old camp-site and continue along the previous access (this is the fastest approach to the cliffs).
Otherwise continue along the rocks (still on the true right-hand side of the river) and then up a bushy grass ramp leading up from the bottom edge of the large pool. Follow the vague path, scramble 3m down a short corner (there is a stamvrug tree to hang on while descending) and then continue traversing horizontally along a grassy, exposed ledge (you are about 25m above the large pool at this stage) until you reach The Broad gully with the prickly cactuses and tree thorns, from where the going is easier (if pricklier). These can be avoided by taking a slightly higher line when you gain The Broad gully. Follow the gully down to the river and continue further to the climbing area.

Other Important Information
Please keep all gates closed. Camping and parking at present are allowed and are free of charge. Water must be sterilised (but see below, ' The Drip'). Fire hazard is high: take all precautions. All rubbish shall be removed, not burned or buried. Climbing is not allowed on the separate Western crag (also popularly known as The Pillar of Eros and situated 800 metres upstream of the Main crag) during the Black Eagle Nesting season (April to Mid- November).
The Drip: Immediately right of the start of Some Like It Hot is a water drip. This drip is perennial (even in drought conditions), and is a source of safe drinking water.

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