UKC

Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 117m a.s.l
Faces W

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A low shot getting the chimney in © leegavrob

Crag features

A small limestone crag which offers some nice bouldering, around 20 problems up to yet, with a range of grades from around f5+ to f7A. 
Most Landings are good and on flat grass, crash mat advised as some of the problems end quite high, and round the arête (far right) the landing is on a slope. Sunlight hits after around 15:00.

Situated next to a brick chimney in the grounds of an old mill which is owned by Bolsover Council, there is an activity centre there, who are happy to allow climbing to take place, however, Please do not climb on anything else on approach to the wall, and no more left than the first climb, as there is no permission to do so, be mindful of security and CCTV as per approach notes.

Approach notes

See the picture for 3 parking spots.

1 - NG19 8SD The Lodge at the end of Outgang lane, from this car park (just before the barrier) the crag is just across the pond. Follow the path next to the mill building and through the metal gates. 

2 - NG19 8RP St Chads Church (as for Pleasly Vale crag) and walk up through the Vale (can not drive through as barriers only allow business employees access.) 

3 - Meden Trail (Outgang Lane) Car Park and follow the footpath eastward toward the Vale.

If you did manage to get through the barriers and park in one of the mill's car parks, you risk being clamped and causing access issues for others. 
Best to walk from one of the above places, just head for the big chimney, at the side of the boating pond, the wall is directly at side of chimney.

Security guards do their rounds from time to time, and there is a CCTV camera overlooking the chimney as there is a car park next to it, having talked to the guys they are understanding and happy to allow climbing at your own risk, however, any littering and unwelcome behaviour will lead them to removing you from the area and likely ruin it for everyone else in the future.

The wall was cleaned and developed in 2013 by Robert and Mark. Recleaned and new development in 2021 by Clarkey, Scott and Kieran. 

please keep the noise down,no litter,watch were you go toilet, camera on roof behind you.please stick to marked footpath areas.be polite to employees/staff using car park. and small groups only please 3/5 max.thankyou..
robert oakton - 05/Apr/13
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