Crag features

The long line of impressive cliffs above Pratdip is clearly visible from the coast. The most extensive crag described (L'Escletxa de Cal Carboner) now seems to be exempt from any bird ban, according to our discussion with the Chief Park Ranger for the Serra de Llaberia. There is a seasonal bird ban (1st Feb - 31st May) affecting the first sector after turning right at the bottom of the descent gully (Diedre Blanc, not described here). Unfortunately, the cliffs beyond the descent gully (on your left as you descend) are subject to a permanent bird ban. This ban is there to encourage the population expansion of the Bonelli Eagle. 

Cingles de la Grallera is a new sector and isn't subject to any bird ban at the moment (it also has the easiest walk in).

Access:

For L'Escletxa de Cal Carboner: limited parking for about 5 vehicles, approx 280m after the Km-3 sign. 30 min walk in.

For Cingles de la Grallera: park in the large layby on the right soon after the Km-7 sign. 10 min walk in.

A word of advice:

The area was developed by French climbers in the 90s and 00s. The original bolt hangers, most of which have not been replaced but have taken numerous falls over the years, are homemade and hence have not been tested to UIAA specifications. Some holds (particularly on the less steep routes in the middle of L'Escletxa de Cal Carboner) were created and stabilised using sika. The climbs they created are mostly very good, but if you like climbs in their natural state, then maybe this crag is not for you. Name plates are at the bottom of many of the routes. 

The left side of L'Escletxa de Cal Carboner (excellent tufa routes, all natural) and Cap Horn (plenty of easier routes) go into the shade around 11am. 

For details on exact location and walk in see Tarragona Climbs 2012 edition. Omitted from the 2nd and 3rd editions.