UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 265m a.s.l
Faces all

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Lucid Dreams (6b) - in the Middle Quarry, Runestone Quarry. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Overlooking Little Langdale Tarn. Now a popular well bolted sport venue with a variety of rock styles and quality.  The  Lower and Middle sectors are within a long broken 'trench' running roughly N-S with an extra deep hole (the Top Quarry), invisible from the lower and more popular sectors The sectors are described as right or left when looking uphill. 



Several old routes first climbed in the early 1990s had some bolt runners. Most of these have been fully retro-bolted 2020/21 and several new routes added. The work is still ongoing and the latest guidebook is now well out of date and quite confusing.

Approach notes

The lower sectors can be approached in around 30minutes either from Cathedral Quarry (parking as for that crag) or, better, park as for Tilberthwaite and follow a gated lane uphill just past the cottages 300m beyond the parking. When the lane flattens out head west making for a gate and stile leading to the foot of the ridge. As this is reached the bottom end of the Lower Quarry comes immediately into view. First time visitors explore uphill from here.

The newly developed Top Quarry requires a longer ascent up the right hand of side of the lower sectors followed by either an abseil or a speiliological expedition through a hidden tunnel on the eastern side.

No Access Issues

No access issues, however with the new lease (issued 2023) for High Fell Quarry there is likely to be liquid spillage from the quarry works above Runestone Quarry which could affect routes in the Upper Quarry.

New Bolts - a delight - did 10 routes in a few hours on a lovely evening with sunset over Langdale. Thanks to Cumbria Bolt Fund - great job.
andy gittins - 01/Sep/20
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