UKC

Climbs 3
Rocktype UNKNOWN

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Rockham Bay Bouldering 1 © Chad123

Crag features

Soft rock pinnacle with a few worthwhile climbs but take care with some of the rock. The traverse around the block at a low level is a good warm up. Other lines were completed but due to loose holds are not listed, these are the most solid lines. The neighbouring block is very loose and not recommended...

2016 update, don't bother! Shock Therapy has fallen down and the rest is soft, snappy and minimal, for super keen boulderers only now! Go to Lynmouth, much more fun....

Approach notes

Park at National Trust Carpark at Mortehoe and follow signs to Rockham Bay, pinnacle is obvious large block right of steps.

I'm confused by your lengthy rumblings sir, do you want me to remove rockham bay from ukc or not? Everyone is agreeing its loose chossy and only worth it if you happen to be there. Who would be silly enough to walk in with only 3 problems described totalling 4 stars between them. Hardly a race review of the place. If you spent your time and energy writing up your secret crags maybe we would go there instead? My family has lived in croyde for over 100years and although I live in edinburgh it's always my home down there so I'd appreciate more bouldering than hartland and northcott. This reminds me of surfing at croyde and getting the "locals rule" comments.....
Chad123 - 04/Feb/13
Just re-read that, and it does seem a bit harsh. So just to clarify… I’ve visited places in the past when on holiday where upon looking on t’interweb I’ve found what looks like a decent enough bouldering spot. A few problems, the odd star or two… so you go to check it out. Only to find nothing of any note, and certainly not worth going out of your way for. An hour to get there, and you’ve seen and done everything within 10 minutes.. I appreciate that it may be handy for people visiting the area to have a bit of a pointer, in terms of where they might find a bit of bouldering, but I wouldn’t want people to think this is something it’s not. It’s not worth (imo) making a trip to Rockham for the bouldering. But if you’re there, having a swim or a BBQ, there is a bit of rock that can be larked about on. And you might even feel like putting your stickies on!
Gruniens - 04/Feb/13
Sure, if you want to write up boulder problems on a chossy piece of fairly inconsequential rock, you go for it. But no need to get all hissy when someone points out they are hardly star-worthy problems, and that they have been scrambled over in every direction over the years. Seems the only one on a high horse is your good self… Don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to knock your enjoyment. I know the fun to be had larking about, sandy landings, loose rock, no one around, see what goes and what doesn’t, couple of mates, bottle of beer, jumpers for goalposts... Living here, most of my bouldering is done on the north coast so I know the enjoyment that can be had on what would appear at first glance to be poor rock. I just didn’t want people to think this is something it’s not. That it’s one of the best the area has to offer, or that it was some excellent piece of rock with excellent problems, when there are plenty of other similar spots on this coast, many with a lot more to offer than Rockham, that haven’t been written up (and rightly so, imo). As for sense of adventure, well, getting caught out by the in-rushing tide at the back of a zawn a hundred metres or so from Rockham, 20 odd years ago, and having to scale a 150 foot near vertical cliff composed mostly of mud and grass to avoid the embarrassment of ringing the coastguard was probably a tad too adventurous, but you live and learn!
Gruniens - 01/Feb/13
Wow you're all a barrel of laughs in the sw aren't you? Where's your sense of adventure boys, I admit its hardly font, rocklands or castle hill, NZ but it kept me amused one afternoon and thought it worth writing up, some people like adventure and loose rock. The shock therapy problem has some good moves on fairly solid rock, the rest is chossy but fun, get off your high horses for a minute and chill out....
Chad123 - 24/Jan/13
Not being funny, but it does seem to be scraping the bottom of the barrel somewhat, if climbs at Rockham are being recorded... No offence meant, but the rock is generally way too loose and inconsequential to recommend. A shame, as a lot of that coast line looks great, nice natural features, etc, but on closer inspection crumbles away in your hands. That particular lumpette has been scrambled all over, over the years. Like a lot of that bit of coast, it's fun to scrabble about and see what you can come up with. A few other bits and bobs are to be found in that vicinity, including an even more isolated beach which is only accessable (from below) at low tide. Fun to explore, and scramble about on teh rock, but don't get caught in one of the zawns with the tide rushing in!
Gruniens - 24/Jan/13
Fair enough, not bothered about FA, went there for a swim and had shoes with me so was surprised by how fun the climbing was all things considered. If you read the blurb at the top I mentioned the poor rock quality....
Chad123 - 08/Oct/12
Sorry to dissapoint you Chad123, but a couple of us climbed these problems quite a few years ago, so they're not FAs. Wouldn't be surprised if they hadn't been played on before too. Before anyone makes the effort, we didn't reckon they warranted any stars or indeed being recorded. It's a fair old hike in for what it is, to be frank, very few problems on very poor rock. Having said that it is a great secluded beach for swimming, a lovely part of the coast and a little fun could be had if you take your stickies with you but don't expect any fireworks!
granticus - 04/Oct/12
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