UKC

Climbs 76
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mil enjoys the technicalities of Pirhana © 1234None

Crag features

Mostly pocketed limestone with edges and some great tufa on the right hand side of the main crag.  Excellent rock quality, rarely crowded.  Route development started in 2009 and now has over 60 mostly excellent routes in the 5 to 8a grade range. More technical than most southern Thailand climbing due to it being vertical to about 15 degrees overhanging.
Mostly single pitch and some 2 pitch routes.
In the shade until about 13:30 in high season (winter) and about 12:00 in low season (summer)

In the 6s pillbox (6b+) exfoliation (6a+) family affair (6c), Indiana Jans (6c) and the dihedral (6b) all come highly recommended...some of the best in their grades in Thailand.  In the low-mid 7s try man or mouse (7a+), superstition (7a+), hobbit jump (7b), grace (7a), kaeng raeng (7b+), scorpion (7b) or scarface (7a+)...all superb.

There is still some new route development happening at the crag with new sectors being added.

Approach notes

To find the crag ask a tuk tuk driver in Ao Nang for 'Chong Phli' (pronounced Chong Plee) 'Soi hok' (meaning road 6). Walk down the paved road 150m and turn right on to a red dirt road. Follow this through a palm tree plantation for about 250 metres and the main crag is on your right.

Alternatively, rent a motorbike and ride out to the crag.  There are bungalows available a mere 20m from the rock for those who wish to stay a few days.  Look up "Chong Pli Climber's Camp" for details.  Price as at 2017 around 500THB per night with deals for longer stays.

No Access Issues

The crag is located on private land.  Access to all crags in Southern Thailand is becoming a sensitive issue, so clean up after yourself (there are bins provided) and keep noise to a minimum. 

Great crag...a welcome change from more crowded venues nearby. It is now possible to stay at the crag in the Spirit Mountain bungalows...about 400 baht per night. Pick up a moped in Ao Nang or Krabi so you can pop into either town as and when you need to. This will also give easy access to the beach for the afternoons at Klong Muang or Tupkaek.
1234None - 31/Jan/13
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Climbs at this crag

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