Climbs 15
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 392m a.s.l
Faces W
Crag features
Mainly west facing granite outcrop clearly visible from A75 motorway. The crag lies across the river Allier from the motorway and gets all of the afternoon sun, despite the base being in the trees. Approximately 15 to 20 single pitch pre-equipped routes on the crag, ranging from 3+ on the small south face to 8a/b+ on the west face and easing off again on the north-west face.
Some of the routes do not go to the top of the crag (mainly west facing routes). Belay chains are provided, as the top has been known to be loose. Descent from the top by foot can be made either side of the crag through the woods back to the base.
The rock is mostly, good, solid granite, with the occasional hollow flake here and there, and which have been known to break off (either on their own or subsequent to climbing) after a hard winter and strong sunshine in the early spring. Lots of smearing, and a few nice layback cracks.
More info in French here :
http://ffme63.fr/phortail/articles.php?lng=&pg=132
The 2010 updated guide to climbing in the Puy de Dome is already out of stock, and a new edition isn't expected until 2012.
Approach notes
From the A75 motorway, take the exit at junction 12, and head in the direction of Orbeil. Once you have crossed the river Allier, the road turns sharp right and up the hill. Turn off left here before the road starts to climb up the hill, in the direction of Saint Babel. Follow the road for about 400 metres and then take a left fork onto a bumpy road (staying on the main road will cause you to climb steeply up the hill), which follows the river. At a first junction, turn sharp left, then continue to follow the river along, through a small hamlet, and then eventually past the railway bridge over the river. Keep following the road which curves round right to pass under the railway via a narrow tunnel and then turns sharp left. A further 200 metres along this track is a small parking place on the verge, room enough for 2 cars. Alternatively, park 50 metres closer to the tunnel in an open field. The walk to the base of the crag is from the grass verge up through the woods, with a clear (if somewhat steep and slippery) path.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
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