Crag features

A very obvious tiered slab of Torridonian Sandstone seen from the road past the Dundonnell Hotel. Park in a lay-by just past the hotel on the left. 
Grid ref: NH 08135.87143.

Longer, Steeper, Better 100m HVS 5a **

John Mackenzie and Eve Mackenzie 16 and 18 June 2009
 

Probably the best of the routes so far. Start at the lowest point on the lower tier where a shallow rib lies to the right of a vegetated crack.

1. 55m 5a climb the rib and a slabby nose to a horizontal crack. Climb a scoop below an overhang and traverse right along a break to discontinuous cracks and up these to a podded crack. Gain the curved corner on the right and then move back left to reach a large flake crack (large cam). Climb up and left to the belay tree.

2. 30m 4b Climb a flake crack above and move right up the slab to a ledge. Easier but smoother slabs near a crack lead to a loose flake, climb the crack to a small ledge on the right with a horizontal crack.

3. 15m 4c Move back left to the slanting crack and pull out the top to a block. There are old in situ wires to abseil from. Please take some new wires to replace as otherwise the descent up and right will take a long time. 

Sandstone Tango 100m HVS- **

John Mackenzie and Andrew James 27 May 2016
 

A fine route on excellent rock up tne discontinuous cracks up both tiers. Start below a short corner beneath a prominent boss.

1. 30m 4c Climb up to the overhang under the boss and up the flake crack on the right to a small ledge. Climb the slab to a crack on the right to a smaller boss to its crest and move right to a stance below a deep crack.

2. 20m 4c climb the deep crack to a steep little wall and belay on the tree.

3. 50m 5a Move right about 7m to below a fine slab which is right of the cracks of Longer, Steepet, Better. Climb to a ledge and a blind crack, step right to another crack then up left to ledges. Step right onto the excellent upper slab and friction up this aiming for a straight crack which is right of Longet, Steeper, Better's slanting crack. The slab steepens below the crack which once reached gains the block. The abseil descent is from old wires at the block. Please replace these with new ones as otherwise the decent is long and tedious up off to the right.

Both routes described abseil to the heather ledge by the tree. You can then walk off tigjtwards followed by an easy scramble to the base.