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Climbs 3
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

Obvious crackline up right edge. Seeps a little but dry above the mossy start, well protected and nice. Left side has a vague middle crack and direct finish. Better than it looks. There is/was a  line climbed up the middle giving a fourth route which would have been bold. Details and style unknown, but would now make a good sport route!

Approach notes

Park carefully off road and go up the left side of the roadside quarry. The bottom of the crag has some large tree's and did have a canopy of Rhodidendrons to climb through from the bottom. These may well have been cleared recently as folk re-discover the 2 excellent trad routes on the crag. The obvious right crack (crag right) is an excellent route on good rock. The more vague left side route makes its way way up the left side and is a lot better than it looks and has a direct finish by me. F.A were as peg routes for a bit of practice, then peg removal and free ascents by Kenny Spence et al from Glencoe Climbing School back in the late 60's early 70's. They were re-discovered and climbed on several occassions by local climbers Paul Moores, Davy Gunn and George Reid in 1981 then again in the late 1990's before being forgotton again until now. In particular the right crack is a well protected and excellent pitch about E15b. Allow a day to dry. Descend bushwhacking down east or abseil from the trees.

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Climbs at this crag

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