UKC

Climbs 360
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 887m a.s.l
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Felipe Cabeça at " Black Sabbath, 8a fr" at Serra do Cipó © fernandolessa

Crag features

World-Class and very popular limestone sport venue. There are three climbing areas (massive outcrops in the middle of the savannah landscape) called Group 1, Group 2 and Group 3. The most popular sectors are in Group 1, home of the famous Sala da Justiça with some of the classic and most beautiful long and sustained routes of Serra do Cipó. The guidebook was released in 2015 but new routes have been added and a whole new sector, Rockmaster, was also developed after the guidebook was published.

Brazil has its own climbing grades, somewhat similar to the French grading system, which is used on this page. 

There is also an outstanding bouldering area nearby called Conceição do Mato Dentro that it is worth checking. Ask the locals!

Where to stay:

Abrigo G3 - owned by climbers and very convenient as you can walk to the crags. Email: magraodocipo@gmail.com. Website: abrigog3.blogspot.com. Telephone: +55(31)9681-6693

Refugio São Francisco - you will need a car to get to the crag. Website:  https://refugiosaofrancisco.com

How to get there: Get a domestic flight to Confins Airport (Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais) from any of the major aiports in Brazil. From there, you can hire a car and drive 73km to Serra do Cipo, via MG-010 going through a town called Lagoa Santa. You can also get there by bus from Belo Horizonte town centre (www.expressounir.com.br). Depends on where you are staying, you don´t really need a car in Cipo, so check with your hostel if they provide any transportation service from and to Confins Airport. 

No Access Issues

Serra do Cipó is part of Serra do Espinhaço, a region that received the title of Biosphere Reserve. Please follow the code of conduct to keep the place clean: keep to the designated paths - do not use shortcuts, brush off any tick marks, take all your rubbish with you, bury your excrement and toilet paper, do not open new routes, it's prohibited to camp or stay overnight within the climbing sectors. Group 1 sectors are on private land. It is extremely important to stay on the designated footpaths and respect the signs and request for silence. If in doubt, seek advice from the AESC - Climbers Association of Serra do Cipo. 

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