UKC

Climbs 27
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 46m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Bouldering © Sophie Nicol

Crag features

Limited but enjoyable climbing. Routes from 3 to Font 7a+.
The rock is generally sound by dolerite standards.  A thorough clean in 2020/2021 restored most routes to a climbable condition, but leaves and brambles do collect, so go and brush the topout first if you're not sure.. Quarry consists of main face and two side walls. The main face is roughly 8m high with several cracks, left wall has two dirty chimney routes and a steep wall, and the right wall offers shorter easy climbs and one worthwhile 6A. Bouldering is hindered by rocky landing on some routes (plenty of mats and spotters needed). The fence and trees can be used for top rope anchors, and the crack routes have enough protection to be led.
Access to the top of the crag can be made by following the path up the right of the crag, then round through the trees. A gap in the fence allows access to the top of the routes.
 

Approach notes

From the stairs at Cathcart train station, turn left down the pedestrian tunnel. Left again up Delvin Road, over the bridge then right onto Old Castle Road. Follow Old Castle road uphill, past the Old Smiddy Pub, untill its juction with Seil Drive. The quarry is behind railings on the left just before Seil Drive. It is NOT in Linn Park as some guides suggest but instead lies directly opposite the entrance to the park.

PARKING:
Parking is best on Seil Drive, just 2 seconds round the corner from the crag. Try not to block the junction with Old Castle Road as it's a tight one at the best of times!

No Access Issues

The crag is in a public park.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcIeTbVnUUU
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

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