UKC

Climbs 40
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 39m a.s.l
Faces W

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Morwell Rocks Crags © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Morwell Rocks represents the 'outer limit' of esoteric. It was discovered by Scottish legend, Tom Patey, in the 1950s and it epitomised his approach to climbing. 'To my mind the magic of a great route does not lie in technical difficulty or even the excellence of its rock, but in something less readily definable - atmosphere'.

On summiting, the open views across the meandering Tamar valley are indeed magnificent. However, finding many of the outcrops involves struggling up vertical 'grass' slopes hoping to glimpse rock through the oppressive gloom of tall fir trees.

Once located, the rock is surprisingly hard slate and whilst gear is sparse on the faces it is excellent where there are cracks. Many of the climbs are currently lost to vegetation, but ivy is relatively quickly removed by abseil if you wish to restore a climb. You may unearth a gem.

Approach notes

The northern crags are reached by a stealth mission via the track which starts at the lodge 400m from Gunnislake New Bridge. Ignore the initial no parking sign and continue to a small parking area and information board.

A top-down approach from the track on the valley rim is best for the southern cluster of crags. This can be accessed from the Lodge parking via a permitted path up to Chimney Rock. Alternatively, park on the roadside 500m from Morwellham's excessive parking charges and follow the cycle track which starts there. This leads directly (with twists and turns) to the viewpoint at the top of C Buttress. From there, steep wooded slopes to the left (looking out) can be descended to reach the other crags. A ButtressĀ is found by descending to a dry leat, following it rightwards around a jutting spur and descending the bay beyond.

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