Climbs 25
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces W
Crag features
Bolt Tail offers schist climbing in a location which is particularly beautiful on a sunny day. Big seas should be avoided and a visit must be carefully timed to the tide. Protecting schist takes skill and perseverance but most of the routes can be made reasonably safe. Tricams, hexes and skinny slings are useful additions to a standard rack. The rock can be snappy but with sensible hold selection this shouldn't be a problem.
Approach notes
Navigate to Malborough south of Kingsbridge on the A381 and from there follow signs to Hope Cove.
Bury Stone Cliff - Locate the solitary bench near the tip of the headland, then walk clockwise around the tip. After turning the corner, the abseil block comes into view on the grassy slope below in the direction of Hope Cove. Abseil with at least 50m of rope diagonally left to the cliff edge (looking out) where re-belaying is advised and continue down grooves to the zawn floor.
Drake's Cliff - Directly south of the bench is a rocky spur with a view of Drake's Cliff. Easy slabs (VD) lead down to a gully and thence to sea level. Boulder hop and scramble 75m onto the fin of rock where Privateer starts.
China Buttress - This is the lower-angled buttress closest to China Rock and can only be accessed by abseil taking care with the rock.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
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