UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 267m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Alan James on Mettle Nettle at Dib Scar © Mark Glaister

Crag features

The horseshoe-shaped cove of Dib Scar lies hidden across the wide dale from its illustrious neighbour Kilnsey. Dib has fewer routes but the quality is high and the crag is worth a visit if the very best has been sampled elsewhere, or a bit of quiet is desired. The left-hand and central section of the crag is extremely steep and has the best rock. The main central overhang has yet to be breached directly, although it is probably a project more suited to a bouldering approach being only a few metres off the ground. The right-hand section has less-steep rock and, until recently, had become rather neglected. It has seen a make-over and much loose rock has been removed resulting in some very good steady grade sport routes that should become popular during dry weather.

Approach notes

Approach from the village of Conistone which is situated across the valley from the B6160 which goes from Threshfield to Kilnsey. Drive towards Kilnsey but turn right to Conistone just before you reach Kilnsey. Park carefully in Conistone taking care not to block any exits - there is also ample parking back near the bridge. Walk down the road and find the footpath to Grassington on the left. Follow this gently uphill for about 20 minutes. After the 4th gate, the track levels out and branches. Keep right and contour around  eastward until a big rock and tree are found overlooking the wooded valley. A path descends from here and goes up the valley until the bowl of Dib Scar appears. Mind the nettles when in season.

Restricted Access

Can seep so dry days are best. On the other hand it gets very hot in the sunshine.

On the right wing of the crag there are two rare Rock Whitebeam trees, these are some of the only remaining Rock Whitebeam in the Yorkshire Dales and likely represent a genetically distinct population. They are close to the routes Nettle Rash, Britvic Fifty-five and Mettle Nettle. Climber have been reported as damaging one of these by pruning. Under no circumstance should these trees be climbed on or pruned further, regardless of any encroachment onto routes. If climbing and free growth of these trees is not compatible then the affected routes will have to be banned.

 

Hard to follow route descriptions with the new and retro bolted routes. Bolting is a bit inconsistent but some good routes.
Christheclimber - 19/Jul/21
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