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Climbs 10
Rocktype Chalk
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

Climbing the chalk cliffs of Kingsgate Bay using axes and crampons is remarkably similar to ice climbing. Softer than either Dover, Telscombe or Newhaven the chalk at Kingsgate gives deep pick placements with a couple of blows. The routes here are best protected using warthogs that are easy to place using a small club hammer and appear solid. 7 warthogs should be enough to lead the 20m long routes. There is good access for hours either side of low tide. Fenceposts, stakes and a flagpole are used for belays or possibly top roping. The thin stake above Sweet Dreams was placed Apr 2010.

The cliffs here been climbed for years, in 2008 there were pick/crampon marks and fixed gear (not recommended) on the two slabby lines on the SE face of the 'Island'. A 75 year old chap walking his dog told us he had climbed at Kingsgate Bay and Dover 40 years ago!

The two slabby lines have been standing for at least two years but the cliffs are obviously continuously changing and every route will eventually disappear. Tick them while you can! Like ice, routes will get easier with repeated ascents but it will never be busy here!!

Topo at.....

http://font8a.blogspot.com/2010/04/winter-returns.html

Approach notes

See parking signs in the car park of 'The Captain Digby' pub.

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Climbs at this crag

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