Climbs 250
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 4253m a.s.l
Faces all
Sunset on the Cordillera Huayhuash, seen from Hatun Machay, Peru. © Alex Buisse
Crag features
An astonishing 'stone forest'Â above 4000m, with stunning views of the nearby Cordilleras Huayhuash & Blanca. Still being developed, in 2013 it has roughly 250 single pitch sport routes, from F4+ to F8b+, lots of bouldering, and about 10 multi-pitch sport routes. Also an incredible amount of potential for putting up new lines.
Hatun Machay is also an important archeological site, please respect access restrictions of certain areas and never climb on, or close to the stone writings.
The hut provides topo maps that you can borrow, or you can purchase the Huaraz guidebook in town at one of the climbing shops.
Approach notes
Located 70km south of Huaraz, facing the Cordillera Huayhuash. Public transport or taxi can be organized from Huaraz, but the easiest way is to go through an agency, the main one being Andean Kingdom - Hatun Machay in Parque Ginebra 120, In front of Casa de GuÃas
There is a refugio next to the climbing area, and a small area where camping is permitted. Currently (October 2013) the refuge costs 30 soles per night and to camp costs 20 soles, with full use of the refuge and it's cooking facilities.
The camping area costs 10 soles per night plus initial 10 sole registration fee. Â It is often sub zero at night. Â The temperature drops off sharply after sun set, approx 7pm in June. Â Sunrise at 7am is a welcome sight. Â
There are rarely options to buy food or drink on site.  Bring everything you might want from Huaraz.  There is a toilet block with running water and hot showers± Given the amount of livestock nearby it would be wise to bring a water filter or purification tablets.
The archaeological complex of Hatun Machay and the stone forest is located near the Farmer Community of Pampas Chico, Pampas Chico district, province of Recuay, Department of Ancash, at 4290 msnm. In the Department of Ancash, 69 km south of Huaraz, on the Cordillera Negra.
A dirt road trail before the Conococha lagoon is followed for half an hour to the west until arriving at a little valley. Then you head towards the north until you reach the refuge. From Huaraz there is no public transportation direct to the place.
* It is possible to be taken on a private bus towards Lima and to be dropped off at km 131. From there, walk west for approx. 1:30 hours till you get to Hatun Machay.
* Another way to arrive there is taking a public bus until the town of Catat; from here taxis can be taken to the Refuge of Hatun Machay.
* The outdoor pursuits agency Andean Kingdom offers private transport to Hatun Machay everyday. This 2013 season this was around 30-40 soles per person.
| Was fortunate enough to go to Hatun Machay this summer (July 2019) for climbing in Peru. Just making this post as a useful logistics guide for anyone else who's going to south America cause information is very conflicting online.
So it's an absolutely incredible rock forest at 4300m, hundreds of bolted routes for sport climbing and a load of bouldering. Really sharp volcanic rock which forms all sorts of really interesting aggressive shapes. Best crag I've ever been to
If you've done any reading online about the place you read about a guy burning the hut there down and cutting bolts and you can't climb there anymore. Without going into the full story, the guy who originally bolted a lot of the routes and built the refuge did end up burning his refuge down and cutting a load of the bolts. However this was several years ago and the area is under new management. The routes have been re-bolted, and a new hut is being built. However at the moment you need a tent, and a good sleeping bag as it's about -5 degrees at night. To climb there it's 10 sols (£2.50) to 'check in' to the area, and 10 sol per night camping there. Money goes to maintenance and there's a deal with local people that live in the area to get some benefit from all the climbing. There's a toilet and a standpipe as about the only campsite facilities.
To get there you want to head to the city of Huarez first (3000m) to acclimatize. There's also several climbing shops, one really amazing one called andean kingdom, where you can rent all the gear you need for very reasonable prices (rope, quickdraws, harnesses, tents, everything). They also have guidebooks you can take photos of and explain how to actually get transport there.
You get a combi bus from Huarez (https://www.google.com/maps/place/9%C2%B031'55.7%22S+77%C2%B031'55.3%22W/@-9.532138,-77.5342237,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d-9.532138!4d-77.532035) to a town called Catac costs 4sol each (£1). Walk 4 blocks to the gas station then get a taxi to Hatun Machay, that's about 50sol (£12.50). Bus and taxi are an hour ride each, and taxi drops you off right at the campsite. Guy that runs the refugio can organise taxis for when you need to return.
Last little bits, the routes are quite long, generally single pitch sport starting at 20m and going up to about 40m. Bring a long rope and a lot of quickdraws. There's also some ancient cave carvings you can find.
Contact details for the guy that now runs the place (a peruvian local) is francis@hotmail.com , alciviades2780@gmail.com , whatssapp: 916700758.
Got any questions then I'm happy to help
Edits: Even though most of the crags problems seem to be in the past, still be careful, the old disgruntled owner has been know to half file through bolts so they appear fine until you fall. But for more good news precipitation is very low in the area, so very low chance of being called off by rain. Sanctora - 22/Sep/19 |
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| Wrote this for my locals club facebook page but thought some people here may find it useful. I went in July 2019 and can give some insight into logistics about climbing there:
Just making this post as a useful logistics guide for anyone else who's going to south America cause information is very conflicting online.
So it's an absolutely incredible rock forest at 4300m, hundreds of bolted routes for sport climbing and a load of bouldering. Really sharp volcanic rock which forms all sorts of really interesting aggressive shapes. Best crag I've ever been to
If you've done any reading online about the place you read about a guy burning the hut there down and cutting bolts and you can't climb there anymore. Without going into the full story, the guy who originally bolted a lot of the routes and built the refuge did end up burning his refuge down and cutting a load of the bolts. However this was several years ago and the area is under new management. The routes have been re-bolted, and a new hut is being built. However at the moment you need a tent, and a good sleeping bag as it's about -5 degrees at night. To climb there it's 10 sols (£2.50) to 'check in' to the area, and 10 sol per night camping there. Money goes to maintenance and there's a deal with local people that live in the area to get some benefit from all the climbing. There's a toilet and a standpipe as about the only campsite facilities.
To get there you want to head to the city of Huarez first (3000m) to acclimatize. There's also several climbing shops, one really amazing one called andean kingdom, where you can rent all the gear you need for very reasonable prices (rope, quickdraws, harnesses, tents, everything). They also have guidebooks you can take photos of and explain how to actually get transport there.
You get a combi bus from Huarez (https://www.google.com/maps/place/9%C2%B031'55.7%22S+77%C2%B031'55.3%22W/@-9.532138,-77.5342237,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d-9.532138!4d-77.532035) to a town called Catac costs 4sol each (£1). Walk 4 blocks to the gas station then get a taxi to Hatun Machay, that's about 50sol (£12.50). Bus and taxi are an hour ride each, and taxi drops you off right at the campsite. Guy that runs the refugio can organise taxis for when you need to return.
Last little bits, the routes are quite long, generally single pitch sport starting at 20m and going up to about 40m. Bring a long rope and a lot of quickdraws. There's also some ancient cave carvings you can find.
Contact details for the guy that now runs the place (a peruvian local) is francis@hotmail.com , alciviades2780@gmail.com , whatssapp: 916700758.
Got any questions then I'm happy to help
Edits: Even though most of the crags problems seem to be in the past, still be careful, the old disgruntled owner has been know to half file through bolts so they appear fine until you fall. But for more good news precipitation is very low in the area, so very low chance of being called off by rain. Sanctora - 22/Sep/19 |
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| October 2013.
Hatun Machay has an agency in Parque Ginebra, in front of Casa de Guías, in high season they have transfer to the hut, that is S/30.00 Soles per way, or S/50.00 when you return the same day.
The refuge is still S/30.00 Soles, nice bed, down blankets, all cooking facilities, crash-pads, amazing fireplace! And the Pampas Chico community fee entrance is included also! you have to take your own food!
The rock forest is also special for the Mystical trips...! Hatun Machay - 05/Oct/13 |
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| Some info for anyone interested:
The minibus from Andean Kingdom currently costs between 20 and 25 soles to take you up to Matchay return. The Refuge costs 30 soles a night. Its definately worth the money for the climbing. Truly magical place! HeatherF - 03/Jul/10 |
Climbs at this crag
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