UKC

Climbs 89
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

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The High Girdle, probably 1980 © sj nicholson

Crag features

The quarry is buried in some trees just off the path and so does not get copious amounts of sun despite its aspect. As the guide says, "Upon initial inspection it would seem Parbold is almost as bad as some of the things people climb on in the South West! However some of the climbs are quite good and deserve more attention, which would raise the status of the venue to that of a typical small crag in the Peak District."

Tends to seep after heavy rain and due to its low popularity some routes need cleaning. The lower grade routes are generally good but unprotected, with the best routes being the top end graded routes. Some of the lower graded routes a loose. Best route "A Worthwhile Pastime - But a Sad Ambition" (E5 6c, was A2) with a monster crux above a rotten old peg that hardly holds your body weight.

The two sport routes are among the best in the quarry and there is plenty of scope for bouldering at low level and on the smaller walls with a mat. Dont forget insect repellent in summer.

It is definitely recommended to take a brush as some routes need a lot of cleaning. Trees at the top give excellent anchors making top roping popular, the crag does offer exciting opportunities for the beginner.

Approach notes

From the lay-by opposite the restaurant follow a narrow path downhill with a wall then wire fence on the left. After the second set of metal bollards and a steeper descent, swing right into the quarry above the End Bay.  The crag isn't initially visible via the approach path.

 

Restricted Access

The access situation is currently unclear. The UKC website was contacted by an agent of the landowner to say "no climbing allowed". The agent was advised to contact the BMC but has not responded to further contact from UKC. Climbs are recorded for historical purposes. The quarry or possibly just the surrounding area between the climbing and the main road are the subject of a dispute over future use as a landfill site. There is no right of access to this crag. Remain polite at all times.

its called lucky strike VS 4b
jay o j - 08/Apr/11
had a good climb there today,did two tough climbs but there not online,the furthest right climb was up the corner after "a worthwhile passtime...." ,I'm terrible at explaining but if anyone could shed light on the identity of the climb it would be helpful. i simply feel its unlikely that I am the first to climb it :)
05potters - 06/Apr/11
Nearly finished a new guide for parbold including new rotes and bouldering, if you have any info that you think should be in the guide please let me know. Cheers Jay.
jay o j - 03/Apr/11
This is like Lancashire's Stanage. That's if Stanage only had 30 routes, half of which were covered in green slime and none of the classic routes. Still its pretty good considering anything else is an hour away. Note for access, its the footpath just opposite the pub. Don't walk down the path to 'the Parbold Bottle' (big stone bottle). My clever mate thought he knew the way and we walked through the brambles just past the Bottle, cut our legs to shreds. There IS a nice clear bramble free path.
samwillo - 31/Jan/11
Spent a few hours there today, very slimy. R/H bay had a mini lake at the base. Could be interesting if cleaned up a little. The wall around the corner from Diamond wall looks decent. Does anybody have a full topo for this?
Darrengold - 22/Sep/10
WN8 7TG is the post code for parking, then follow the directions written below :)
Soap - 18/Sep/10
Does anyone have a postcode for this venue? I live near by but am unsure how to get there from where i live. I would like to have a look and maybe develop the venue as a bouldering area through the autumn and winter. Thanks.
CosmicHobo - 06/Sep/10
If you park in the layby opposite the Miller & Carter pub (previously the Wiggin Tree) and walk to the end of the laybay with the pub/road on your left you should be able to see a path heading down the hill (on your right). Walk down there and you'll get to the quarry in under 5 minutes. Watch out for nettles.
Boulton - 03/Aug/09
you don't go into the landfill. Walk down the path on the left of the landfill its quite a way down but you can't miss it.
Andrew.Davies - 13/Jul/09
CAn anyone shed some light on how to find this crag, I went for a look on monday but failed to find it. We parked at the access to the old land fill and went through the gap in the fence and followed the road for a couple hundred meters to no avail!
beastmaster247 - 01/Jul/09
I would be good it the routes were put in order in the list.
Andrew.Davies - 08/Jan/09
I am currently trying to write a fresh guide for this crag in a bid to get people using it more! If you know of any FA's or would like to comment on anything about the quarry, i welcome emails through this site, thanks very much! James
Jimbo MSider - 18/Jan/07
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Climbs at this crag

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