UKC

Climbs 59
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 54m a.s.l
Faces all

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Colourful Climbing. © Smith42

Crag features

Bouldering only on the Blackberry Boulder, however, a short walk away there is a quarry, which can be bouldered or trad climbed. The quarry is in a state of disrepair due to local youths smashing bottles and starting fires, if plan on going, bring a garbage bag and gloves to remove glass. 

Approach notes

In Jesmond, Newcastle, Access from the Coast Road or better, Castle Farm road.
Nearest metro station is Ilford road, the crag can be found by turning right onto the path immediately after the bridge on Castle Farm road, the quarry is visible from the upper path after ~120m and the bouldering from the lower path.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 13/Mar/2024
Loose and crumbly. Sketch but good climb. Defo need a helmet
strangeloop - 17/Apr/24
It seems obvious the walls under the bridge have received some attention but not a lot seems documented and the few climbs that have seem very eliminate in nature.
Emilio Bachini - 21/Nov/21
Has anyone graded, named the routes on the smaller quarry by the public toilets? I've spent the last few days top roping the routes at the bottom of the stairs and was wondering what other people make of them or if its worth gardening back the rest of the quarry.
s.scott - 03/Jun/13
Went today with my mate and whilst setting a top rope up on the main wall a woman from the nearby farm came and told us that the boundary of their land extends all the way to the cliff edge (not just to the fence) and threatened us with prosecution... So unless you are willing to place gear (not recommended) then top roping is impossible.
connolly230292 - 28/Sep/11
Castlefarm road not 'Castledene' sorry if a mod could edit my post I would be gratefull, Thanks.
G.Duffy - 07/Aug/11
The Quarry is mainly very wet due to it being very low in comparison to the surrounding land - unless its had a few days of solid sun to dry. Best Parking is on castledean road the further from the freeman hospital the shorter the walk. head down the hill and turn left and enter the dene just before the bridge. the bouldering is just on the Right down some stairs. the quarry is further down the inital path on the left you can see it before you can get to it because of the wall and the drop Kids set fires and drink there so bits of broken glass and litter & some of the rock is covered in soot from fires! There is also alot of ivy now hanging over the top. The North wall is very crumbly you look up for a hand holds and get an eye full of sand. The East wall seems not too bad but is covered in debris (so take a brush!). The top outs are now over-grown and the easy access land behind [and on top] has recently been fenced off [and is private] only leaving a narrow strip of overgrown matted weeds and bushes (I had to crawl on my hands and knees through some of them). I would just abseil back down. We top/bottom roped the middle climb on the North wall - just to the right of the overhang (don't know the name but its the only one the ivy hasn't covered) on the way up looked for gear placements, the result were unanimously "sketchy at best". we still had hours of enjoyment regardless of our complaints. At the Bouldering venue we have no real complaints. climbed here alot as its less that 5 minutes away. There is another smaller 'Quarry' located near the public toilets ( cross the river the ruins of the Old water mill) its also quite muddy. I've heard rumors of other bits of "cliff" from none climbers but I haven't found them yet.
G.Duffy - 07/Aug/11
Went there on sunday, climbed a route on the right hand wall, uncertain of name/grade. Good rock + route! Me and a friend are planning to clean up the quarry! Get out there and climb on it!
timlongs - 09/Nov/10
great for an hour after work
phillcardiac - 26/Mar/07
Pumpy, usually dry, sandy grit. Great for training but suspect for falling on gear. Could spoil some lines.
hugh squire - 10/Dec/04
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