UKC

Climbs 1
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 2095m a.s.l
Faces all

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Straight up the chimney at the start of the via ferrata © chrisacoutts

Crag features

The central peak of the Tre Cime di Bondone (not Lavaredo!) is a squat Dolomite tower. The summit is wide with numerous edelweiss flowers (protected species) and dwarf pines. The highest point has a cross with bell. The summit is normally accessed up a steep equipped path to the SW and descended down a steeper equipped path to the NE. A short but difficult via ferrata (not to be underestimated - there have been a number of fatalities) climbs the E face to the S of the descent route. Various routes dating probably from the 1950s to 1970s were climbed on the continuous faces right round the peak (100 m to 150 m in height), on apparently good rock. Old pegs and other ironmongery are visible at some points. Like many local Trento crags and mountains, climbing was more or less abandoned from the 1980s onwards when the Arco sport crags were developed and when car ownership increased.

Approach notes

A well maintained path forms a ring from the Viote parking area over all three Tre Cime peaks for an excellent summer walk/scramble. The ascent of Doss d'Abramo can be skipped on a path to the W (not E) of the peak, eliminating all technical difficulties (beware of ice in early summer). The ferrata is best accessed from the north leg of the circuit (and after a very exposed section of path on the E side) and the crags from either leg.

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