Climbs 15
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 73m a.s.l
Faces N
Lowering off Leaning Jowler (F6b)Notice Board Crag. Take care here as you only just access the ledges edge. © rockcat
Crag features
This crag was said to be used to hang criminals on the top of as an example for all to see. Luckily this isn't done much these days and the top off the crag is now just a popular spot to watch the traffic (jams) on the A55. The routes themselves are on perfect solid rhyolite with plenty of positive holds and amazing pockets.
Re-equipped in 2020, the crag now gives a very good set of mid-grade sport climbs.
Approach notes
Exit the A55 at junction 17 and drive towards Conwy on the A547. Cross the railway bridge and immediately turn sharp right into a cul-de-sac road which leads towards a small industrial estate south of the railway track.
Park about 100m down the road, then walk back and follow the A547 towards Conwy for about 200m until a stile on the right leads onto Conwy Mountain. The steep grassy path leads straight up until a fork left can be taken above the crag to gain the summit cone, adorned with eponymous notice board and various iron stakes. Access the base of the crag by heading down the far side of the summit to a small grassy shoulder, from where a mini path leads horizontally left to a small notch and old fence. A fixed line is in place along the exposed ledge at the base of the cliff - all quite exciting.
An alternative approach for locals is to follow the North Wales Path from Mountain Road up onto Conwy Mountain and head right towards the Notice Board. Parking is limited on Mountain Road.
| I put some old rope on the approach after seeing someone slip on the greasy rock step and nearly fall down the grass gully. Feel free to tidy it up as necessary. Would be good to replace it with steel cable at some point, although it might give the impression that it's 'ok' for kids to start scrambling around and get climbers in trouble. Dan Hale - 09/Sep/12 |
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| A great piece of rock. Far better in reality than the grimy looking picture in the guidebook suggests. Also, provided you bring a beer towel or similar to dry the uppermost jugs, the crag is permanently dry. Dan Hale - 17/Aug/12 |
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| just finished re-bolting fiendish beamish, now has two extra bolts and new lower off. leaning jowler is now a full clip up finishing up fiendish and using its lower off. have also installed handrail along windy ledge. ENJOY! spidey - 27/Sep/10 |
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| went for a visit yesterday... is pretty cool and feels like ur on a high pitch of a mountain route... problem is the bolts are very poor. we started up leaning jowler and decided that the bolts where too dodgy. adam06 - 08/Aug/10 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer michael burrows