10m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © Rockfax

FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some)..

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , 50 cracks to Squamish , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Best Forgotten Art , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
ed edwards 30 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
pdhu 24 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
Garan 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".

Logged Ascents

292 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 206 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 84
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Eye of Faith

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)

Loading Notifications...