8m.
Rockfax Description
The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. Start past another pocket, or the groove to the right. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Veale 1980.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HaleAlex | 17 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't reach the second pocket on lead/get the confidence to try the sketchy intermediate hold. Found a different beta after retreating and doing on second with some nasty intermediate pebble crimp | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Couldn't reach the second pocket on lead/get the confidence to try the sketchy intermediate hold. Found a different beta after retreating and doing on second with some nasty intermediate pebble crimp |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 4 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Going up with right-hand from second pocket with left fingers around the thread gets a good bit of the top. Doing it this way makes placing the second thread less crucial (and that is the crux if you place it). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Going up with right-hand from second pocket with left fingers around the thread gets a good bit of the top. Doing it this way makes placing the second thread less crucial (and that is the crux if you place it). |
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| TomYoung | 19 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Threaded a nut rather than a sling at second set of pockets. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Threaded a nut rather than a sling at second set of pockets. |
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| cem | 5 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I'd suggest it's a seriously bad idea to miss out the second thread & go straight for the top. That's what I did & I soon regretted it when I was fighting to top out without falling off. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'd suggest it's a seriously bad idea to miss out the second thread & go straight for the top. That's what I did & I soon regretted it when I was fighting to top out without falling off. |
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| Mick B | 30 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Having to make an intermediate move to reach the second pocket certainly felt 5c to me. Worth doing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Having to make an intermediate move to reach the second pocket certainly felt 5c to me. Worth doing. |
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| Cottie | 17 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: I can reach between the pockets but found the crux placing the second thread. Wish I'd not bothered and just gone straight for the top | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I can reach between the pockets but found the crux placing the second thread. Wish I'd not bothered and just gone straight for the top |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The only gear on this route are 2 threads (one per pocket) - the top thread being particularly hard to place while hanging on! Pumpy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The only gear on this route are 2 threads (one per pocket) - the top thread being particularly hard to place while hanging on! Pumpy. |
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| Tyler | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'9" (and a half!) and found the move hard, had to undercut the poorer RH pocket and bringmy leg up into the LH one and then pull on the pebble. Wouldn't argue with 6a but if you're over 6a it may seem like 5a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'9" (and a half!) and found the move hard, had to undercut the poorer RH pocket and bringmy leg up into the LH one and then pull on the pebble. Wouldn't argue with 6a but if you're over 6a it may seem like 5a |
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Route of Interest
Meditation
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Lower)