Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand line on the wall is another arduous outing. If all else fails, try a right-facing egyptian to avoid the huge reach. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1988.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
remus 28 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Start is pretty cheeky for the shorter gent. Im 170cm and had very little to spare on the first move.
Show beta
βeta: Start is pretty cheeky for the shorter gent. Im 170cm and had very little to spare on the first move.
goi.ashmore 6 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and I think the egyptian's the nice way to do it. The crimp feels big that way (but then again it is a jug by south wales standards)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and I think the egyptian's the nice way to do it. The crimp feels big that way (but then again it is a jug by south wales standards)
simon cox 24 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: For people of normal height, don't bother with the Egyptian - its tall weak persons beta, for most a red herring...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For people of normal height, don't bother with the Egyptian - its tall weak persons beta, for most a red herring...
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant face climbing up shallow hanging groove then a monster Egyptian move to shocking two finger crimp then up to bomber break and gear....but with which hand? enjoy...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant face climbing up shallow hanging groove then a monster Egyptian move to shocking two finger crimp then up to bomber break and gear....but with which hand? enjoy...

Logged Ascents

25 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 20 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great ArĂȘte

Grade: E5 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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