The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab has boldish moves to the midway break (small cams) and then turns technical and reachy above. A bit escapable but the climbing is good enough to ignore that fact. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1985.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 15 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: The BMC (and now Rockfax) grade of E3 5c is correct. Easy moves in reasonable conditions, the crux perhaps being stretching over to place the bomber cams! Slightly eliminate but good and continually nice climbing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The BMC (and now Rockfax) grade of E3 5c is correct. Easy moves in reasonable conditions, the crux perhaps being stretching over to place the bomber cams! Slightly eliminate but good and continually nice climbing. |
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john nightingale | 27 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: E3 in the new guidebook, spot on. friend half, half way up and a surprisingly good friend 00 above, would hold a fall i think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: E3 in the new guidebook, spot on. friend half, half way up and a surprisingly good friend 00 above, would hold a fall i think. |
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Robo | 24 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: Seems very bold for E2 5c...bottled it and ended up on Fringe... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seems very bold for E2 5c...bottled it and ended up on Fringe... |
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UKB Shark | 23 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: followed it yesterday - we thought E2 fair though looking at comments soft touch E3 would also be ok | βeta? | |
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βeta: followed it yesterday - we thought E2 fair though looking at comments soft touch E3 would also be ok |
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Ropeboy | 21 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Have read the comments with interest so far; it's bold but not as bold as Brush Off so may be bottom end E3? A bold start lead to a much better protected upper half and I did it on a red hot day having vowed never to go on that slab again. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Have read the comments with interest so far; it's bold but not as bold as Brush Off so may be bottom end E3? A bold start lead to a much better protected upper half and I did it on a red hot day having vowed never to go on that slab again. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Mildly bold?? There isn't any gear at all until the midway break, and perhaps one piece higher, near the top. Very scary indeed! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mildly bold?? There isn't any gear at all until the midway break, and perhaps one piece higher, near the top. Very scary indeed! |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)