The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Trend right across the unprotected face past tricky moves at 3/4 height, then finish direct. Positive holds but bold. © Rockfax
FA. Geoff Milburn 1962.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Offwidth | 28 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Maybe this climb doesnt suit me but I find it desperately scary to lead and even seconding it find the move at about 4m in (and 6m up) no pushover at 4c. Good moves and a good test of nerve so plenty of value for such a short route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Maybe this climb doesnt suit me but I find it desperately scary to lead and even seconding it find the move at about 4m in (and 6m up) no pushover at 4c. Good moves and a good test of nerve so plenty of value for such a short route. |
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Monk | 17 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: Quite exciting towards the top. It may be easier if you are tall. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Quite exciting towards the top. It may be easier if you are tall. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up. |
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Jamie B | 5 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very good indeed, but effectively a solo. Small holds, but they're all there. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very good indeed, but effectively a solo. Small holds, but they're all there. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Rivelin Edge)