The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Climb the groove to the roof then exit right (crux) to Croton Oil and a finish up the rickety flake. Low in the grade but pumpy and committing. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1954.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 22 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Short-lived, but a really nice crux move scooting around the nose. Committing rather than hard. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Short-lived, but a really nice crux move scooting around the nose. Committing rather than hard. |
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Martin Cooper | 3 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Maybe I was just having a good day (unusual) but I thought the crux was straightforward (hold on the left on the arete above the roof) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Maybe I was just having a good day (unusual) but I thought the crux was straightforward (hold on the left on the arete above the roof) |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)