The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The rib between the chimneys is climbed on rounded holds and is poorly protected where it matters. © Rockfax
FA. Glyn Owen 1955.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , The V.S.+ Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tony Kartawick | 26 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Serious. | ||
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βeta: Serious. |
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Iain Thow | 21 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Escapable all over the place & good pro in the breaks. A friend seconded this as his 2nd ever route & found it easy. |
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alj | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my first HVS - and I didn't find it too hair-raising. The bottom 15 / 20 ft are a bit fluttery - as the landing would be evil if you fell - which I reckon is why it deserves HVS. Above that there's good gear and I'm a real shorty (5'2") and found the top technical but definitely no need to lassoo or use the tree! |
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leon | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: don't let all the talk about this being a serious route put you off. every break after the second slab has good gear placements, that only leaves about 15 feet of unprotected climbing at the bottom. it's a nice route that's even easier than it looks. |
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shaun walby | 20 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right | βeta? | |
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βeta: The rock has much more friction than the more popular edges, so the delicate move at the top (i couldn't reach the top hold)is easy doable without lassoing the tree. i think HVS4c is about right |
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Offwidth | 28 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!). | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bottom is a delightfully delicate solo but only 4b, the top is artificial and for short climbers very much the crux (if you cant reach the break there is a technical rockover on a small foothold but you can always take a long sling and lasso the tree for protection!). |
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Gripped | 17 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely bottom moves but too easily escapable; soft. My back/fleece brushed gently against the tree (it's tricky avoiding it!) |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Rivelin Edge)