The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
Cut out the loop on Der Kommissar via some fierce moves through the bulge. © Rockfax
FA. Graham Hoey (onsight) 1989. The route Der Komissar (Roger Greatrick 1983) has now been superseded by more direct offerings..
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tom Hill | 10 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Somewhat cleaned/brushed as of today | βeta? | |
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βeta: Somewhat cleaned/brushed as of today |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 2 May, 2005 |
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βeta: A cunning knee-lock makes it possible to reach the sloping hold directly from below (for the tall) which gives an easier move than the depressingly powerful but obvious left hand crank on a tiny edge - probably still worth 6b though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A cunning knee-lock makes it possible to reach the sloping hold directly from below (for the tall) which gives an easier move than the depressingly powerful but obvious left hand crank on a tiny edge - probably still worth 6b though. |
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UKB Shark | 8 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Worked out we did Der Komissar, the original route up the wall at E46a. ie reach up to a flake on the right to rock left for the key large sloping hold. What we did seems the natural way to climb the wall. To avoid the flake is looking for difficulty for its own sake and so I would regard Jaded as an eliminate. However, I guess it tidied things up for the guidebook to make Moontan an entirely independent route!. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Worked out we did Der Komissar, the original route up the wall at E46a. ie reach up to a flake on the right to rock left for the key large sloping hold. What we did seems the natural way to climb the wall. To avoid the flake is looking for difficulty for its own sake and so I would regard Jaded as an eliminate. However, I guess it tidied things up for the guidebook to make Moontan an entirely independent route!. |
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UKB Shark | 8 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: rockimg across from right to left probably makes it 6a | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: rockimg across from right to left probably makes it 6a |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Higgar Tor)