Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
Cut out the loop on Der Kommissar via some fierce moves through the bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Hoey (onsight) 1989. The route Der Komissar (Roger Greatrick 1983) has now been superseded by more direct offerings..

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Hill 10 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Somewhat cleaned/brushed as of today
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Somewhat cleaned/brushed as of today
Alan James - Rockfax 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A cunning knee-lock makes it possible to reach the sloping hold directly from below (for the tall) which gives an easier move than the depressingly powerful but obvious left hand crank on a tiny edge - probably still worth 6b though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A cunning knee-lock makes it possible to reach the sloping hold directly from below (for the tall) which gives an easier move than the depressingly powerful but obvious left hand crank on a tiny edge - probably still worth 6b though.
UKB Shark 8 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worked out we did Der Komissar, the original route up the wall at E46a. ie reach up to a flake on the right to rock left for the key large sloping hold. What we did seems the natural way to climb the wall. To avoid the flake is looking for difficulty for its own sake and so I would regard Jaded as an eliminate. However, I guess it tidied things up for the guidebook to make Moontan an entirely independent route!.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worked out we did Der Komissar, the original route up the wall at E46a. ie reach up to a flake on the right to rock left for the key large sloping hold. What we did seems the natural way to climb the wall. To avoid the flake is looking for difficulty for its own sake and so I would regard Jaded as an eliminate. However, I guess it tidied things up for the guidebook to make Moontan an entirely independent route!.
UKB Shark 8 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: rockimg across from right to left probably makes it 6a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: rockimg across from right to left probably makes it 6a

Logged Ascents

20 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 8 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rasp Direct

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Higgar Tor)

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