Restricted Access
To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.
Rockfax Description
One of the original lines here, and still a terrific one. It takes the central line of grooves between the caves, in the centre of the wide buttress. Climb up to an overhang at around 11m, then move left onto a good ledge - possible belay. Easier moves then gain the foot of a steep groove, which is followed to a bigger ledge on the right (possible belay). Climb the cracked groove above to a good exit. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, P.Grainger 26/Sep/1970.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stackpole Head
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Chimnastics
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mewsford Arches)