12m.

Rockfax Description
The central arete gives a fine route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at E5, though the upper section remains bold. © Rockfax

FA. Terry Hirst (with side-runner) 1978. FA. Simon Jones (solo) 1992

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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UserDateNotes
simes303 2 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definately protects the crux. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didnt hit the ground. Its definately a full three star route though and is probably easily onsightable as its obvious how to do it when you get there. Cheers, Si.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very soft for E6. The low gear is bomber - friend 1.5 and medium sized wire - and definately protects the crux. I was having a bad day and slipped from the good hold on the arete before the big break and after the crux, and still didnt hit the ground. Its definately a full three star route though and is probably easily onsightable as its obvious how to do it when you get there. Cheers, Si.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 30 Nov TR RP
Sam Marks 3 Nov Lead RP Catch the heavy thing
Catch the heavy thing
Dave Warburton 3 Nov Lead β Beautiful in its simplicity. Well worth the drive on a marginal forecast.
Beautiful in its simplicity. Well worth the drive on a marginal forecast.
danJBA 26 Jun TR O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 12 May TR O/S Very soft for 6b. Gear too low to help if it goes wrong.
Very soft for 6b. Gear too low to help if it goes wrong.
Jwatson 11 Jan Lead RP
NinaR 15 Sep, 2018 TR dog Sneaky toe hook needed for me
Sneaky toe hook needed for me
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 Lead RP
pipof747 21 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Miki the Red 9 May, 2017 Lead RP
thebigeasy 19 Feb, 2017 Lead dnf Tired on toprope a good few times. Was cruising up it each time so went for the lead. Foot popped going for the good break and took a whipper. Only just stopped before the ground, definitely not recommended!!
Tired on toprope a good few times. Was cruising up it each time so went for the lead. Foot popped going for the good break and took a whipper. Only just stopped before the ground, definitely not recommended!!
Rory_Cummings_NI 5 Nov, 2016 Lead RP
with Ali
with Ali
Rory_Cummings_NI 4 Nov, 2016 TR β
with Ali
with Ali
bensilvestre 4 Nov, 2016 Lead RP Flashed on TR, should have gone for the onsight. Easy E6 6a, not even nearly 6b
Flashed on TR, should have gone for the onsight. Easy E6 6a, not even nearly 6b
Andy Moles 4 Nov, 2016 TR
with Ben Silvestre
with Ben Silvestre
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30 Oct, 2016 TR
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30 Oct, 2016 TR Did it clean a few times on top-rope, will try and get back soon to do it on the sharp end. Great climbing.
Did it clean a few times on top-rope, will try and get back soon to do it on the sharp end. Great climbing.
Jake Young 29 Oct, 2016 TR β Flash with Beta on top-rope, guess that means she's a goer.
with amccann
Flash with Beta on top-rope, guess that means she's a goer.
with amccann
James Oakes 15 Oct, 2016 Lead β Watched Alex top rope a few times to get beta. Used different sequence in the end which felt more secure without practice. First E6 flash.
with Teappleby, Lucy Bradbury, harry.morrish, amccann
Watched Alex top rope a few times to get beta. Used different sequence in the end which felt more secure without practice. First E6 flash.
with Teappleby, Lucy Bradbury, harry.morrish, amccann
mattlyons 15 Oct, 2016 TR β
with amccann
with amccann
amccann 15 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Couple of toprope goes then led. E6 6a
Couple of toprope goes then led. E6 6a
benkelsey 22 Apr, 2016 TR RP Flashed to big jug, one move before break but was a spanner and thought the heel was on the undercut, not e obvious sidepull. Did with outrageous right then right again sequence. then properly. Did not fancy the lead! Strong clean dispatch from tom.
Flashed to big jug, one move before break but was a spanner and thought the heel was on the undercut, not e obvious sidepull. Did with outrageous right then right again sequence. then properly. Did not fancy the lead! Strong clean dispatch from tom.
Teappleby 22 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Quick evening smash. E6? Quite reachy. Just cool arête climbing.
Quick evening smash. E6? Quite reachy. Just cool arête climbing.
dr_botnik 9 Feb, 2016 TR RP
Andy Peak 1 9 Feb, 2016 Lead RP Smashing:-)
with J Doors, dr_botnik
Smashing:-)
with J Doors, dr_botnik
Wizzy 24 Sep, 2015 Lead RP Awesome route, great crux sequence!
Awesome route, great crux sequence!
ashtond6 20 Dec, 2014 TR felt solid on it, but didnt fancy the barndoor leg pinching with a groundfall
felt solid on it, but didnt fancy the barndoor leg pinching with a groundfall
Bethan May Davies 25 Oct, 2014 TR
john lynch 25 Oct, 2014 TR
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead
mark20 21 Aug, 2014 Lead β
deacondeacon 21 Aug, 2014 Lead RP First E6. First headpoint. Preplaced gear and no side runner. Probably soft. Lovely moves though.
First E6. First headpoint. Preplaced gear and no side runner. Probably soft. Lovely moves though.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 TR RP
tedswag 29 Mar, 2014 TR dnf
BillyRidal ?Jul, 2013 Lead RP Super cool line and good climbing, first of the grade.
Super cool line and good climbing, first of the grade.
hamer89 15 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
Brown 12 Feb, 2011 Lead RP
with Henry
with Henry
mwatson ??, 2011 TR RP
dominic lee 7 Nov, 2010 Lead RP
nathanlee 7 Nov, 2010 Lead RP Great moves - Soft 6b but regular E6.
Great moves - Soft 6b but regular E6.
BeccaSnowden 25 Sep, 2010 TR RP Got it clean on 3rd try
Got it clean on 3rd try
liamoloughlin 26 Apr, 2009 Lead RP Probably worth 6a.
Probably worth 6a.
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 TR dog
Hidden 17 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 15 Apr, 2008 Lead β Had belayed Barrows on this last year. Got warmed up, did it and then got rained/hailed off. Brilliant route, really enjoyed it. Some quality arete thigh pinching after the crux stretch.
with Tommy M
Had belayed Barrows on this last year. Got warmed up, did it and then got rained/hailed off. Brilliant route, really enjoyed it. Some quality arete thigh pinching after the crux stretch.
with Tommy M
Hidden 24 Jan, 2008 Solo O/S
JMarkW 15 Dec, 2007 TR RP
with Lee McAvoy
with Lee McAvoy
Hidden 17 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2007 Lead β
Jus 25 Feb, 2007 TR
Gus ??, 2004 Solo
simes303 ??, 2004 Lead RP There are good runners on the route just before the crux section. Distant side runners totally unnecessary. Still only E5 really. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tdESQEihCw
There are good runners on the route just before the crux section. Distant side runners totally unnecessary. Still only E5 really. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tdESQEihCw
Grimny-lyn - the merry dwarf ?Jul, 2002 Lead RP Did it after one toprope attempt - without the side runners. What fun!
with Mike Stacey
Did it after one toprope attempt - without the side runners. What fun!
with Mike Stacey
Jon Read ?May, 2000 Lead RP Same night as On The Air. Single low runner, en route.
with Kate Cox
Same night as On The Air. Single low runner, en route.
with Kate Cox
David Slater ?Sep, 1991 Lead RP
with Andrew Simon
with Andrew Simon
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 27
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set