Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the reachy shallow groove to gain a ledge. Foot traverse across the face until a precarious stride gains the arete. Continue up the slab with some tricky moves to gain the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
On the G'Day arete level left of Hogiau Pen Garett. Start by climbing the tricky / reachy shallow groove to gain the ledge above, foot traverse across the face using tiny but positive handholds for balance, a better hold and a precarious stride gains the arete, continue up the slab with some tricky moves to gain the lower off above. 9 Bolts lead the way.

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sam Beesley 02/Jun/2008.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Sl@teheads Sl@te

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User Date Notes
Robert Tanulak 2 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 3 Hard crux sections, all super nice climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 Hard crux sections, all super nice climbing

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Choose Life

Grade: 7a ***
(Bryn Eglwys Quarry)

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