Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
The flowstone passing a small overhang. © Rockfax

FA Historical, cleaned and equiped by Vic Middleton 2008.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
Littla 26 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Jug on first ledge above second bolt (third bolt on the 3 to the left) is very wobbly and will go soon, please don’t grab and take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jug on first ledge above second bolt (third bolt on the 3 to the left) is very wobbly and will go soon, please don’t grab and take care.
Littla 26 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Jug above second bolt on the ledge is very wobbly and will go soon, please don’t grab and take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jug above second bolt on the ledge is very wobbly and will go soon, please don’t grab and take care.
BertieP42 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: difficult to clip the second bolt
Show beta
βeta: difficult to clip the second bolt

Logged Ascents

427 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slings Shot

Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)

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