Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

24m. Climb the corner in its entirety, (stepping right at the very top) from a tree belay at the large mid-height ledge. Take care for the first 5m due to some loose rock. First ascent since significant rock removal, route is now very different from the original version.

Cat Baines, Col Kingshott 30/Aug/2023.

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Route of Interest
Plastic Iceberg

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Warton Main Quarry)

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