Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Description taken from new routes pages of http://javu.co.uk:

50ft The perfect introduction to the harder routes on the Cheesegrater cliff, which can be reasonably well protected with cams and wires. Climb the obvious, straight crackline (although indefinite at the start) starting on the apex of the pedestal. After the crux final moves, climb slightly left to finish. FA Dave Pickford, Simon Tappin. September 2005 Climbed after abseil inspection. All gear placed on lead.

Dave Pickford, Simon Tappin.

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Nighthawks

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lundy)

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