Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels nest on the crag but no formal restriction is in place as they are not Schedule 1 (legally protected) or locally rare birds. If they are in residence on the crag, please climb past their nest site as quickly as possible taking care not to cause any damage and limit disturbance.

4 pitches. Start as for The Leaf where a large flake leans against the west end of the crag.
1. 4a 12m Climb the first 3-4 metres of The Leaf then traverse right around the blunt arete to below in the recess (shared belay with Western Wall.
2. 4c 25m An exciting and sustained pitch. Climb to the second of two small ledges on the edge of the right-leading ramp and traverse round to cross Malediction. Continue in the same line in a fine position, moving up slightly to reach a descending hand traverse (exposed and strenuous) to reach the foot of the chimney of The Plumb. Place some gear in the chimney, take a deep breath and set off across the steep wall right under the overlap (gear if you look) to belay at the perched block on Bryanston.
3. 4b 15m Despite the lowish grade this is a serious and rather unnerving pitch, especially for the second. Good gear till just over halfway. Move round the perched block and traverse on the lumpy slab below the steep wall. Continue just below the overlap which guards the entry to the mossy slab above. Halfway along either climb on to the mossy slab or continue below it to reach the security of the block belay on Thomas.
4. 4a 10m Climb the well-worn pitch above the block, as for conclusion of Thomas.

Ticklists

Rog Wilko's Neglected Gems in The Lakes , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS

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User Date Notes
andy gittins 21 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What an exciting route - tricky route finding but if you get it right it’s quite a trip - the downward finger traverse is above its pay grade really but the mossy slab is full of surprises - gear, descending traverse, some good friction but probably nails if wet - needs competent team work
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What an exciting route - tricky route finding but if you get it right it’s quite a trip - the downward finger traverse is above its pay grade really but the mossy slab is full of surprises - gear, descending traverse, some good friction but probably nails if wet - needs competent team work

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Guidebooks for Wallowbarrow Crag

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 5
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mickledore Grooves

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Scafell East Buttress)

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